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Tuesday, December 8, 2009
What a Blast!!So, we just had the 7 course tasting on this past Monday the 7th. Considering nobody in Maplewood Village expects
us to be open on a Monday, the turnout was outstanding. A dozen people came to dinner. Their good luck because I had
just received black and white truffles from Oregon.
At this point let me just say, Oregon truffles are outstanding
this year. Their whites always pack a lot of flavor. Mind you, they are not the size of Italian white truffles
and the flavor is going to be different, obviously, but pound for pound, at the price, the best performing truffle on the
face of the earth. And the blacks this year, really good. Now the other thing is, I challenge anybody get fresher
truffles from anywhere as consistently. And if you needed at kicker, I'd rather buy American truffles, use them properly
to get the most flavor possible and just save my guests the additional $50 I would have to charge just to get a whiff of an
Italian white truffle. End of story.
This is how it works. I'm standing at the stove, filthy with truffles
and a bunch of my friends are coming to dinner. I had to audible at the line. The brandade wonton became a tasting
of brandade served old school, in a bowl but I decided to tune up the dish by lacing the brandade with black truffles,
added double cream and then shaved more black truffles on top. I would have taken a picture but dishes like this have
to be seen in person. Really.
The next course had to be modified, just because. I looked around and decided
that a wonton was still necessary, essential. Five minutes later, all the lobster I had became lobster mousse, that, in turn,
became a lobster mousse wonton that was the garnish for the cauliflower soup finished with chanterelle oil. I could hear the
moans in the kitchen. but it wasn't until the lamb course that I heard someone started to cry. That's unconfirmed but it
was supposed to be like that scene in Ratatouille with Alton Ego.
By now, I've kind of worked
myself into a corner because the next course was supposed to be black truffle Alfredo. There's no way I could let that stay
that way and have any self respect. I did the only thing I could do. Get ridiculous. The black truffle Alfredo
became...yes, white truffle Alfredo with fresh lemon spaetzel. The only thing I can say about that is the color was
so beautiful. The aroma. Honestly, I called it Alfredo but I could bring myself to adding enough Parmesan. It
was basically a puree of white truffle in cream with just enough Parmesan to add the salt content the dish needed. And, of
course I had to finish the dish with shaved white truffles. The aroma...the flavor.
Anyway, everybody walked
away very happy. I had a blast. I can't wait for the next one on 12/21/09. Same format. 7courses starting at 7:00
one seating. And, this one is almost sold out. If you didn't have the phone in your hand already...well, I just don't
what to say to you. Gotta go the phone is ringing. Don't be a stranger...
10:36 pm est
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
This Monday 12/7. Seven Course Holiday TastingOn Monday, 12/7 at 7:00 we are going to put on a 7 course tasting menu for the same price as our regular Pre Fixe and I
couldn't be happier. It's going to go something like this;
First Course
Brandade Wonton with
Roasted Pepper Vinaigrette What I love about this particular dish is it completely
expresses how I think about cuisine. You have a classic French preparation delivered in a Chinese wrapper
cooked in a way that brings out a more Spanish flavor accented with roasted pepper.
Second
Course
Cauliflower Soup with Lobster
You really can't any more French than Potage Du-Barry.
But just to make it just a little more decandent that what you would usually associate with cauliflower, I
finish the soup with just a touch of cream and garnish it with Lobster. I don't think you will be able to look
at cauliflower the same after this.
Third Course
Black Truffle Alfredo with Spatzel
Alsacienne Sometimes I like to prepare something that is always a hit and served everywhere and then turn
it on its head by doing something ridiculous. That's where Black Truffle Alfredo comes into play. Although there
is a little more to the preparation, basically I just take a ludicrous amount of truffles and make them
scream until they've given me all their flavor. Then I mount the Alfredo with truffles and ride like the wind.
Fourth Course
Roasted Chilean Sustainable Turbot and Corn Broth and Brussels Sprouts
You'd be hard pressed to find a tastier fish than turbot. There are whole sections of Escoffier
dedicated to Turbot recipes and preparation who's starting place is either Turbot or Turbot stock. 'Nuff said
about that. In this dish, the sauce is creamy but not rich. There is no cream in the sauce. The sweetness of the
corn is juxtaposed against the earthy qualities of the Brussels sprouts that are quickly steamed and then finished in
a touch of brown butter and thyme. The dish is finished with a spot of basil truffle oil and California
Sturgeon Caviar.
Fifth Course
Baby New Zealand Lamb Chop, Roasted Vegetables and Fennel, Onion
Marmalade and a Roasted Honey and Spice Jus
I think we all know what lamb tastes like so let me jump
to the other components in this preparation. First, we have a marmalade that is made by slowly
sweating sliced fennel, onions and garlic with thyme until they are fondant, melting in your mouth. Once that is
accomplished, the salt component that is added to be a counterpoint to the sweetness of the onions and fennel is Parmesan cheese that is added into the mix until the mixture resembles marmalade. Then zucchini, yellow
squash, tomato and eggplant are layered on top and everything is baked in the oven. The sauce consists of
a caramelized honey gastric that is finished with sherry vineager and spice. Then lamb jus is added
and reduced to the proper intensity.
Sixth Course
Short Ribs braised in White Wine with Cardamom
and Coriander with Hangar Steak
Everyone always asks me why I braise in white wine. I always
tell them because everyone else braises in Red wine. What can I say. Anyway, I balance the spice so neither one is
prominent. Serve it with braised vegetables and Roasted Hangar Steak. This is a classic approach.
Where each part of the animal is treated differently in order to reach its ultimate flavor through different preparations.
There is always a little mash potatoes in the mix when short ribs are involved.
Seventh Course The Elvis
What was Elvis's favorite thing to eat? I decided that it was important to interpret peanut butter and banana sandwiches as a desert. All I can say is, this started as a Peanut Butter and Jelly
Sundae that we serve in the restaurant, as we speak, that got deliciously out of control and will be unveiled for
the first time at this tasting.
9:30 pm est
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Our Menu Changes Often Below
Is a Recent Example
Candied
Cashew and Goat Cheese Salad With Granny Smith Apple,
Field Greens and Sherry Vinaigrette Smoked Salmon with Sweet Pea Pancake
Cucumber,
Tomato and Salmon Caviar With Dressing of Yogurt, Horseradish, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Lemon
Roasted Shrimp Dusted with Black Pepper With Granny Smith Apples, Shaved Fennel and Juniper Vinaigrette
Leek & Potato Soup With Mottled Cream ~
Roasted Half Chicken With
Mashed Potatoes, Haricots Verts Thyme, Lemon and Garlic Jus Pork
Chop Oaxaca (wa-ha’-ka) With Pineapple and Chocolate Mole Roasted Mushrooms, Fried Sweet
Plantains, Bacon and Haricots Verts Roasted Suzuki With Fingerling Potatoes,
Asparagus, Grape Tomatoes, Olive Oil and Balsamic Glaze ~
House
Roasted Coffee Ice Cream Sundae With Whipped Cream and Chocolate Sauce
Mixed
Berry Pana Cotta With Whipped Cream
Supplements Ribeye Steak With Garlic and Shallot Marmalade Asparagus and Mashed Potatoes $12 supplement Rack of Lamb With Rosemary, Lavender and Garlic Jus Asparagus and Mashed Potatoes $10 supplement Roasted Turbot With Sweet Corn Broth, Brussels Sprouts, Lardons, Baby Yukons $8 supplement ~ LK
Apples in Crepes With
Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream $3 supplement Chocolate
Lava Cake With
Cinnamon-White Pepper Ice Cream, Caramel Anglaise $3 supplement “The Elvis” Bananas and Peanut Butter Ganache in Phyllo With Peanut Butter Ice
Cream $4 supplement
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Roasted Lobster with Cognac Butter and Foie Gras
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